Acne Studios - Womenswear Show Autumn/Winter 2015/16 in Paris with interview

A rendez-vous for Acne Studios on the ground floor of the Pompidou Centre in Paris, with a view directly onto the street...Art, architecture and fashion always intermingle at the Swedish brand. Wool is found at the heart of the collection but not just for the knitwear, but also used for the blankets. Jonny Johansson enjoys making it attractive especially through a play with rolled up cords around the material and on the body. The shapes are sculptural particularly on these oversized coats. One of the biggest inspirations of the designer comes from Vivianne Sassen, the photographer from the Netherlands, where several photos are used in prints on these long trousers open at the bottom worn with transparent tops. The patchworks of fabrics are equally used on several tailored trousers. The essential pockets are stitched onto the coats, jackets and trousers which also focus on the functionality, one of the most important notions at Acne. To note: a proposition that is always attractive with the jackets and these XXL berets designed by Stephen Jones. Interview: Jonny Johansson: In Sweden we’re quite functional, we have an oversized silhouette and that’s because of functionality, it’s the way we dress, and it’s been one of our trademarks also, this volume and this functionality, and I just felt that I really wanted to challenge that and then I had this role playing around with in the studio little bit for the prints, I started cinching in all the sides right down to the body conscious. Then I was just like “Oh Vivienne!” because I work with Vivienne Sassen quite a lot – she’s an amazing photographer, and I was thinking I have to bring some of her pictures out to see if I can find something, I found colour, I found this spontaneous, this randomness that she’s doing and sort of capture that in the feeling, so it’s not literally anything, but I used some of her images for some of the prints. We made almost all the fabrics, so I built a lot of the fabrics that are based on old blankets that are used for moving furniture, you know when you lay on the furniture to protect it. But I also had images from Vivienne Sassen the feeling of that plastic bag or with a brick wall or the red, those kinds of things. Music from the show

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