Published
Mar 30, 2018
Reading time
4 minutes
Download
Download the article
Print
Text size

Why is plus size fashion still taboo for Brazilian retail?

Published
Mar 30, 2018

Despite the inexorable growth of the plus size fashion market in Brazil, investment into the segment remains taboo among the largest retailers. According to data from the Brazilian Plus Size Association (ABPS), there was a 7.9% growth in revenue in the sector in 2017, with revenues of 7.1 billion reais. The expectation for this year is an increase of 8.1% in profits. But the numbers still fall short of the true potential of plus size fashion.


Malwee's Wee! plus-size range



The niche of products aimed at plus-size consumers represents only 5% of the fashion retail in Brazil. The ABPS survey shows that the market is full of untapped potential: There are about 120 million Brazilians who wear clothing sizes from 46 upwards, and the United States, a pioneering country in selling plus size fashion worldwide, makes more than $20 billion in a market for more than 200 million people. According to the ABPS vice president, Marcela Elizabeth, prejudice and a fear of entering the plus size market still reign in business.

Prejudice and health

"Entrepreneurs cannot take such a prejudiced approach. There are some who have certain restrictions, who only sell up to size 52, because they think that from that number onwards is already a level at which the person should be trying to lose weight and wear smaller sizes. But it's not that simple," said the expert at an event organized by the Brazilian Retail and Equipment Industry Association (Abiesv).

According to her, the plus size consumer "has the worst buying experience possible." Marcela, who has been a plus size researcher and activist for some ten years, says the lack of investment reflects the mood of customers who need bigger clothes.

"Everyone is happy when they go out to buy clothes. But the plus size consumer is not. They leave home frustrated and knows that they will be poorly served and that they will not find what they are looking for. There are many cases of obese people who only use one piece of clothing to go out in, and at home they wear wide fabrics and sarongs because they do not have adequate market sectors to serve them," he says.

Market reactions

However, various problems within the segment aside, there are indications that Brazilian fashion is gradually absorbing the still-almost-untouchable plus size market. As stores are increasingly responsive to the area and have been eyeing the market, the demand from stores for plus size mannequins has grown. The CEO of Expor Manequins, Marcos Andrade, said that there was a 30% increase in sales of plus size mannequins in 2017 and that the trend is growing.

According to the executive, the plus-size line saw the most sales growth of all the products manufactured by the company. "Mannequins are key building blocks for creating experience. Today the name of the game in the physical store is to create an engagement with the customer,” said Andrade, who is also vice president of Abiesv.

The chief of Expor Manequins considers that the usefulness of the plus size market should be better recognised when it comes to engaging consumers, with the mannequin reflecting the consumer's profile. "You have to understand your client, their values ​​and then create that connection. In the plus size market the consumer is more lacking in products and more sensitive. The psychological work is much greater. So we have to communicate with them in the best way possible, "concludes Andrade.

Journalist Flávia Durante has regularly organized a plus size fashion fair, Pop Plus, since 2012. In the first edition of the event, she told Brazilian news portal Novarejo that there were only 12 participating stores. At the last fair in March of this year, the presence was much greater: there were at least 70 exhibitors who sold exclusively plus size pieces.

Big brands

Brazilian biggest fashion retailers still do not see the plus size market as keenly relevant. Among them, Renner is the only retailer that has a brand specific to the plus size consumer, Ashua, which is an online exclusive. The company intends to expand the business and create a branded physical store.

C & A has a partnership with the startup Flaminga, which sells clothing from size 44 upwards, at several registered stores. But the range is hidden amid a wide variety of garments and categories on the site.

Pioneering

The brand that has best expressed the relevance of the market segment is Malwee, which has a line exclusive to larger pieces, called Wee!, and was one of the first to appear in Brazil. According to designer Raquel Quinderé, responsible for the line, Wee! grew 47% and was the bes-performing range by Malwee in 2017.

The fashion designer says that "There is still a lot of prejudice in the plus size market, but companies are starting to open their minds." The problem, according to her, is the misinformation that exists around the the needs of consumers. "The brands are still uninformed with the segment numbers. There is a great challenge to show that this consumer exists."

Novarejo
 

Copyright © 2024 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.